Seoul 20/20

When you arrive in a new country you never know what you may experience even though you may have a general plan of attack. Personally, I usually pre-book my hotel/Airbnb. Mark down some interesting restaurants. Maybe jump on Reddit for some “boots on the ground” advice. And now, of course, spend some time on AI to get ideas from the Great Sage in the Cloud. It all adds up to arriving with a bit of confidence. And of course, leave room for surprises. 


As I was finishing my Japan visit, my plan was to take the ferry over to Busan, South Korea, then spend a few weeks exploring, ending up in Seoul. But the closer I got the less interested I was in extending my trip to South Korea. It seemed, on every level, Japan was a complete meal. I wasn’t hungry for more— diving into a new country; confronting a new language, new money, new subways, new food (that part was ok), was more than I wanted. I was ready to come back to my sweet island of Samui. 

There was one small twist. Before I left Samui, I asked Phatzy to join me in Seoul. She lets me travel solo on my adventures (without much complaint), so I thought she’d enjoy doing some traveling herself.  

Well to quote poet Robert Burns… the best laid plans of mice and men… she applied for her visa and it was immediately denied. WTF? Thais are not Americans and many countries are suspicious of them coming and staying for work. It was disappointing for both of us. 

After accepting my solo status I had to figure out how to make the best of my overly-long week stay. Go with the flow was my choice. (It’s actually my choice in most things I do.)

Never has that motto been put to the test as much as it was that week.


Word on the street is that Seoul is the place to go for skin care, facials, boob jobs and for that matter all things body. Medical tourism as they say. With my extra time, I thought I’d take advantage of that. I researched and found a well respected spa and booked the ultimate facial. I also found an eye clinic that offered an in-depth exam for a reasonable price. My eyesight has gotten progressively worse over the years (common presbyopia). I’ve been needing reading glasses for over twenty years now and lately I’ve been wondering if I need glasses full time. Why not get them checked out. 

As I walked into the Bright Eye Clinic, I was immediately impressed. Situated at the top floor of a beautiful new building, I glanced around at the polished marble, the reception desk filled with smart looking people and the waiting room populated with foreigners. I felt I was in good hands. Off to one side was a room full of examination machines. I was also given a translator who would accompany me for my tests — they obviously were prepared. For two hours I was effortlessly escorted from room to machine, as my eyes were tested in every which way.

Afterwards, my translator and I sat and waited for the doctor, who would go over the results. 


The doctor was a friendly, but serious man. He got to the point and told me that I had cataracts. They were not bad but would get worse over time and at some point I would probably choose surgery to correct it — which basically means having a lens replacement. (Both my parents had the surgery around this time of their lives. Something I had a vague recollection of.) I shrugged, figuring that I’d cross that bridge when it comes.

Then he said something that honestly, floored me. “When your lenses are replaced, you won’t need reading glasses (or any glasses for that matter) anymore. I paused. I had no idea that there was a way to correct presbyopia. I shook my head in disbelief. No way. I didn’t believe him and told him so. He confidently told me that cataract surgery is common and if I chose the right lens (there are several choices), my vision could be back to 20/20. But I still didn’t believe him. He then told me about a man from the US who had the surgery a few weeks ago. He was ecstatic at the results. 

“But I’m only here for a few more days” I shot back at him. He didn’t miss a beat. We can do it today!” Now my head really began to spin. I mean I just got here a few hours ago. There was no place in my brain that I could imagine having surgery today.

Let’s get to the point. Reading glasses are an integral part of my life — computer, menus, damn everything I read, I need them. I have numerous pairs that are always at my side. And I’m always buying more. The thought of tossing them away was profound. 

But here’s the scary part. I’m in a foreign country. I have no one around me to talk this over with. I’m the type of guy who does his research. I like to know what I’m getting myself into. And I’m feeling way out of my comfort zone. “I told him again that I’m only here for a few more days and then I’ll be on a plane to Thailand”, thinking that would be a good way to get out of it. “Not a problem” he said. Hmmm. All I could think of was “How much does it cost?”  He smiled, and like a car salesman pointing to the managers office, he pointed to a door across the hall where I would talk to the lady who would give me the details.

I was trapped.


As I squirm uneasily in the waiting room, my mind buzzes. “What am I doing?” I panic. I visualize a scalpel cutting into my eye, taking out my lens and replacing it with a piece of plastic which I’ve been told by a doctor who doesn’t speak English would allow me to see perfectly again. Would I lose my precious eyesight?

What can I do to ease my fears?

I grab my phone and tap the Perplexity AI app (I’m not sure why, but I was desperate to know more). I start asking every question I can think of about cataract surgery. Is this true that it’ll correct my vision? What are the side effects? Is it dangerous? Is Seoul a good place to have it done? How much does it cost here compared to the US? The answers were concise, logical and to the point. Maybe I’m crazy, but I trusted it’s answers. I didn’t stop there. In fact, I didn’t stop until I was escorted into the “office” where a nice, smart lady smiled and asked me to sit down. 

As it turned out, considering that I would invest in the top of the line lens — it was expensive — but less than in the US with Medicare.

Palms sweating, I agreed. Why? I’m not exactly sure. But my gut told me it was okay. And I trust my gut.

Let’s face it, I have no plans. I’m here. And It’ll soon be over and I’ll be on my way. Without glasses! Glup. 


The surgery itself was not particularly painful. But it was one of the more uncomfortable experiences I’ve had. It lasted maybe ten minutes. Eyes taped wide. Bright lights focused. Tons of liquids. Then it was over.  


Twenty minutes later, after resting, I opened my eyes — the world turned on its axis. As my eyes darted around the room, it was like someone had washed the windows. Everything was so clean. So spotless. So… new.


That night I had a video call with Phatzy. I stared at her (without glasses!). I could see every detail of her face. I don’t remember what we talked about — only how beautiful she was.

I spent the next few days taking it easy. I explored a few areas of Seoul. Seemed like it could be a fun town. I saw the doctor again. All good. My still watery eyes measured 20/20! When I sat down at my computer, I instinctively reached for my glasses, but I had already stored them away. Funny how difficult it can be to break an old habit. 

But it wasn’t all roses. I discovered that it takes time for new lenses to settle. To become a part of me. The periphery of my vision would often jiggle. Kind of unsettling. And my brian felt unsettled too. Like it didn’t know what to make of this new clarity. The doctor says it takes time for my brain to get used to my new vision. He said that it could take up to three months (or more!) for my eyes to stabilize. But it was nothing to worry about. I worry anyway. That’s just me. 

So here I am a month later, writing this blog on my computer without glasses. There is still some jiggling. Mostly in the morning. But every day my vision seems a bit better. And I’m still 20/20.


On the whole, I’m still processing what I did — a crazy spontaneous decision, alone in a foreign country , a decision that I’d have to live with for the rest of my life.

But as I sit down in front of my computer, I grab for the reading glasses that are no longer there.

And smile.

Am I seeing this right?

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Savoring Japan